Where to Stay in Naples: Honest Advice
It's easy to get Naples wrong, especially when you're tired, hungry, and desperately trying to find a hotel after a 10-hour train ride from Rome. I remember standing on Via Toledo at 11 PM, squinting at a hotel sign that promised "central location" but was actually a five-minute walk from the actual city center. The front desk clerk, a woman with a cigarette dangling from her lips, handed me a key that didn't fit the lock. I spent the first hour of my trip trying to get a room that didn't smell like stale espresso and damp towels. After two failed attempts, I finally found the right place: La Casa di Nonna Rosa, a family-run guesthouse tucked away on Via dei Tribunali, just steps from the Duomo. The owner, Maria, greeted me with a plate of zeppole—fried dough balls drizzled with sugar and filled with ricotta—while I was still unpacking my suitcase. The room, a cozy third-floor space with a tiny balcony overlooking a courtyard, cost 85 euros per night, includ...